“Wine Rises in the East, Including in Romania” #2/3 by Florence Monferran

Discovering Romanian Wine Cultures

A Culture of Fusion

Generations of grape varieties tell the story of the region’s many foundational influences. The ancient wine of the Dacians established the area’s reputation. During the Middle Ages, Germanic influences introduced Welschriesling, Pinot Gris, and Traminers, securing the predominance of white wines. Muscat Ottonel, the “nectar of Transylvania,” reigned supreme among sweet wines.
After the phylloxera crisis in the late 19th century, the vineyards were replanted with French varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Aligoté. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot dominate, covering 20,000 hectares. Simultaneously, the country is rediscovering its ancient grape varieties with melodic names. White varieties like Fetească Regală and Fetească Albă, known for their floral notes, and reds like Băbească Neagră, Fetească Neagră, and Negru de Drăgășani stand out.
Quality-driven imperatives have amplified the richness of the soils and traditions, blending ancient landscapes with ultra-modern equipment. The expertise of winemakers—initially from across Europe and now increasingly from Romania—has been impressive. They skillfully balance international and local grape varieties, blending them freely. Their focus on endemic varieties has resulted in wonderfully fresh and refined white wines and deliciously complex reds.
“The Fetească grape tells the story of Romania. It originates here, from the past,” they explain. It reflects the intrinsic quality of the terroirs and a long winemaking tradition, even if interrupted for some time. These new vineyard managers and winemakers produce distinct flavors shaped by the terroirs, their history, and their personal touch. Their wines exude an energy that allows them to meet the growing demand for quality wines. Responding to market trends, they are now crafting fresher, less robust wines, with lighter oak aging.

Surprising Aromatic Palettes

A tradition of sweet wines (Tămâioasă Românească, Muscat Ottonel, and Grasă de Cotnari) and revived sparkling wines complements a dominant focus on white wines, now enriched by attractive reds.
The elegance of highly floral whites (white flowers, rosewood) with spicy undertones, especially Fetească Albă and Regală, is sometimes reinforced with beautiful length from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Pinot Gris wines of remarkable quality also stand out.
Silky reds unfold with age-worthy Pinot Noirs, refined and balanced, or with complex Fetească Neagră wines, offering notes of dried plum, red fruits, and undergrowth, reaching an almost luscious texture. Whether robust or lighter, these surprising wines, like Negru de Drăgășani from Viile Metamorfosis, are far removed from the image of harsh wines with poorly managed tannins.

Cultures on the Fringe

On the fringes of this transformation, small family vineyards of hybrids, chosen for their resilience, still survive in rural areas. These symbolize peasant viticulture and rural consumption, contrasting with the refined tastes of urban dwellers. Grapes and homemade wine are sold by the roadside, a scene observed in the heart of Dealu Mare and more remote Carpathian foothill regions, even in tourist cities like Sighișoara.
An emerging organic wine culture is beginning to take shape, notably in Dealu Mare and Dobrogea. Some recognized estates are certified organic. The first was Dominele Franco-Romane, founded by Denis Thomas and later taken over by Romanians, which went organic in 2006. Petro Vaselo in Timiș cultivates 172 certified hectares in the Banat region, where a microclimate fosters powerful wines while respecting the environment.
Dominele Bogdan in Dobrogea has established a large-scale model, transitioning to biodynamics (Demeter) in 2019. In Lechburg, Italian investors Guarato produce fine wines, including characterful Muscats. Jelna Wines in the DOC Lechinta follows a comprehensive agroecological model, though not yet certified. Partial conversions allow for a gradual transition, as abundant rainfall and stagnant air in deep valleys pose challenges to organic farming, particularly in Transylvania.
Budureasca is transitioning 7.5 hectares to organic farming. The iconic Viile Metamorfosis by Marquis Piero Antinori began its shift in 2013. Near the Danube Delta, La Sapata demonstrates an ethical alternative: Roberto di Filippo brings a bio and biodynamic culture from Italy, revitalizing the local economy and employing struggling workers.
By respecting the land and natural cycles, these expressive wines highlight the complexity and energy of the terroirs.

Wood: Romania’s Other Wine Story

Romanian forests dominate the interior landscape, covering three major regions: Transylvania, Moldavia, and Wallachia. The cooperage Vlad, founded in the Maramureș region (Carpathians) in 2003, revived a French-style forestry tradition. Today, under Théodore Vlad, it has been transformed and integrated into the Charlois Group as a “living heritage workshop.” It breathes new life into Romanian oak, already prized for producing competitive barrels. The complete mastery of the supply chain ensures well-matured wood, artisanal toasting, and a distinct character sought after in Europe.

Challenges of the Model

Despite its strengths, Romanian wines still suffer from a poor brand image. Changing this perception is a long-term effort, as is achieving sale prices that reflect their rising quality.
With a small population (19 million), the domestic market is limited. Gaining a foothold in international markets remains crucial. Currently, only 3-5% of wines are exported due to a lack of sector organization. Additionally, EU funding has largely been used to plant international grape varieties, which face stiff competition from leading countries.
Like other regions on the 45th parallel, Romania faces similar climatic challenges, disrupting vegetative cycles and affecting grape quality. This year, spring frost, summer drought, and a devastating September storm caused early harvests and reduced yields, particularly for white grapes. However, with climate changes, central Transylvania and the Carpathian foothills are evolving into areas for exceptional red wines, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and aged Fetească.

The Romanian government once expressed its hope: “May wine, a great natural resource and a symbol of the history, culture, and traditions of a people, become Romania’s leading ambassador worldwide in the near future. “After an initial phase of qualitative redevelopment led by European investors, a new generation of Romanian winemakers is bringing fresh technical and stylistic energy. They are helping wine become an agent of economic and cultural integration within the European Union.

Photographs © Florence Moferran